1995 was the first time I traveled to California Wine Country. A few trips later, on a recommendation, I made an appointment, pointed my rental up Spring Mountain and made my first visit to Smith-Madrone.
That visit was a game changer for me in a number of ways. The spirit of the place evokes what my mind’s eye tells me Napa was like a few decades ago. Great wines at a fair price, surrounded by beauty. Since that first visit, I’ve been back a fair number of times. Brothers Stu and Charlie Smith always welcome me, like I’m certain they do everyone, with a smiles and open hearts. My expectations, or at least hopes, for what I’ll experience when visiting wineries anywhere in the world was colored by that visit.
The Smith brothers have been farming their property, and producing honest wines since the early 70’s. For many years, the offerings were limited to Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Riesling. in somewhat recent years they’ve added a Rosé, and in exceptional vintages, Cook’s Flat Reserve, a luxury cuvée.
What the Smith-Madrone wines have in common is honesty; there’s that word again. What I mean is, the contents of the bottles genuinely reflect what that specific vintage provided up on their little slice of Spring Mountain. That may sound simple, but it’s not nearly always the case. One of the most frequent wine questions I get is someone asking me to recommend a Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Without fail or hesitation I always say some variation of, “get yourself a bottle of Smith-Madrone Cabernet Sauvignon, they’re up on Spring Mountain. Don’t be thrown off by the reasonable price, it’s as good on my tongue as any Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa.” Those who follow through, and track down a bottle, invariably thank me for that tip.
But we’re not here today to talk about their Cabernet Sauvignon or their excellent Chardonnay either. It’s their Riesling that’s on my mind at the moment. In the past I’ve referred to Smith-Madrone’s Riesling as their secret weapon; I maintain that it’s a fair assessment. So many of the folks travelling in Napa, tasting wine, are trophy hunting for Cabernet Sauvignon. It happens with Chardonnay to a lesser degree too. But the number of wine lovers road tripping around Napa on the hunt for Riesling, let alone world class Riesling, are de minimis in comparison.
As I cast my mind I’m daydreaming about wine lovers on holiday in Napa. Maybe it’s their first time there, perhaps they’ve been before but now they’re looking to get deeper into the heart of the place, so they sought recommendations. Someone told them that Smith-Madrone has exquisite Cabernet or Chardonnay and they take heed. They make an appointment and then drive up Spring Mountain at the agreed upon time. Once there, even though it might be their first visit, they’re greeted like family. They’re given a tour of the facility and depending on the time they’ve allotted, they’ll see some parts of the property. The view is gorgeous, the hospitality is simply down home and gracious. But how about those wines? They start tasting the lineup and they marvel at everything. Their mouths are very, very happy. And then they get to the secret weapon.
Smith-Madrone 2018 Estate Riesling ($36)
The wine is entirely Riesling, produced from Estate, Spring Mountain District Fruit. 1,611 cases of this vintage were produced.
A host of citrus aromas drive the aromatics here. Lemon peel and tangerine are of note. the refreshing acidity makes its presence known from the first sip and drives things alongside continued elements of citrus fruit, as well as a dash of white pepper and lasting minerality. The finish lingers and demands you take another sip. This absolutely delicious Riesling is just a little kid at 6 years old. It’ll age gracefully for well more than a decade. Drink it now or later, either way, you’ll be happy.
I’m jealous of those first time visitors to Smith-Madrone. If I had access to time travel, I’d likely venture back to my first visit, to once again be entranced by the wines, the views and the people for the first time. But as impressive as all of that is, the sensation and surprise from that first sip of Stu and Charlie’s Riesling, that’s the exact moment I want to travel to. The good news is you can buy their Riesling and taste exactly what I’m talking about. Drink it alone or pair it with great food.
On this occasion I paired the Riesling with a simple preparation of Ayocote Morado beans from Napa’s own Rancho Gordo. After soaking the beans overnight, I cooked them with a tablespoon of Trader Joe’s Italian Style Soffritto, salt, and a dash of red pepper flakes. I stirred in some farro and added a sprinkle of Cotija cheese. This simple dish was beyond delicious and paired marvelously with the wine.
So you see, each time I pull the cork on a bottle of Smith-Madrone wine, especially their Riesling, it’s like a magic carpet has taken me on a ride to visit with an old friend. Nice to catch up pal.
Been to Napa dozens of times. Love it- never been to Smith Madrone. Definitely will stop in next time I’m out there. Hopefully Fall 2024. Thank you for the tip.
by the way Gabe, - next time you go out there. Plan a stop at Mayo Family Winery. Tammy and I have become friends with the Mayo family (Jeffrey is the son of the founders) and the whole Mayo crew. Love it- will arrange a free tasting for you.
It’s like I was there myself … the way you tell it! Magical place up there.