Somewhere around 2002 I spent time in Paso Robles California for the first time. It was only a couple of days, but it sure left an impression. In ensuing years I’d continue to spend some time there whenever I could. Pretty quickly Victor Hugo Winery became a personal favorite. What they were doing, the wines they were making, stood apart from many area producers at that time.
Back then, there were a lot fewer wineries in the region, and only scant numbers who were consistently producing balanced wines. Don’t get me wrong, they existed, but those seeming to focus on monster wines outnumbered them in my experience. So when I came across this little, family run winery, turning out honest wines at unbelievably reasonable prices I was hooked and joined their wine club. The bulk of their portfolio is red varietal wines, but they do have a couple of blends, a few whites, a rose, and a couple late harvest gems to quench your sweet tooth. Of note among the non-reds is a consistently standout barrel fermented Viognier.
Alas, I’m not here to dive into any of those. From early on in my wine drinking, I’ve had a fascination with Petite Sirah. Initially I was turned on by the exuberant, dark fruit flavors that are common. But with time I came to realize that I liked Petite Sirah even more, if that was possible, with some age on it. When the previously referenced exuberance settles down a bit and the secondary characteristics such as earthiness, chicory, and such rise to the forefront, the experience is completely different. This of course is contingent on the wine being balanced to begin with.
For my money, well made Petite Sirah is one of the great values in age worthy wines. Another is Gamay from Beaujolais. In both cases their neighbors, often Cabernet Sauvignon in the case of Petite Sirah, and Red Burgundy in the case of Gamay, garner the juicier headlines and the higher prices and scores. Completely different grapes and wines, but for me they both *generally* share that massive value proposition, particularly when it comes to age worthiness.
Victor Hugo Winery 2003 Petite Sirah
Blackberry and plum aromas are evident on the still fruity nose. Sipping reveals candied black cherry, earth and just a hint of dark cocoa. Bits of thyme and rosemary are evident on the above average finish. There’s a remarkable freshness to this wine 21 years down the road. It’s been a couple of years since I’d opened a bottle of this vintage and I’m thrilled to see how incredibly well it’s held up. Though I must say, I’m slightly sad, I had quite a number of bottles of this particular vintage, of their Petite Sirah, but this was my last one Thankfully I find their Petite consistently delicious. For reference the current vintage of their Petite Sirah sells for $30.
I paired this wine with Rigatoni in Lentil Bolognese. I first came across the blog Feasting at Home early in lockdown, and it’s proved to be a resource I tap into a lot. I really love traditional Bolognese, but I didn’t miss the meat here for a single second. It was an excellent pairing which lent to a truly perfect Sunday Dinner. Not pictured is some homemade Sourdough to help clean my plate.
In short I strongly recommend both Victor Hugo Winery out of Paso Robles and the wonderful food blog Feasting at Home based in the Pacific North West. Check them both out!