Ramey Wine Cellars 2016 Single Vineyard Chardonnays
Four singular Chardonnays from a master
Tasting single vineyard wines side by side, particularly from the same producer and vintage is a lot of fun! It really throws the window into a winemaker’s philosophies wide open. I had both of those things in mind when I accepted samples of four single vineyard Chardonnays from Ramey Wine Cellars, some years ago. Somewhere along the line they were lost, so to speak, among a lot of other bottles. And then, well, I got burned out, so they sat. I’ve spotted them a few times recently and it bugged me. So in a case of, better late than never (I hope), I decided to finally taste and report on them.
Close to 90,000 acres in California are planted to Chardonnay. As a point of comparison, less than 17,000 acres are planted to Sauvignon Blanc. Cabernet Sauvignon (the King), has over 95,000 acres planted and Zinfandel more than 44,000. Chardonnay is in the number two spot, quantity wise. So what’s my point in mentioning that? It’s a simple one, but vital to note, particularly in this situation. The vast majority of the resulting wine from those nearly 90,000 acres of fruit end up in bottles, boxes, kegs, cans and the like that are simply not meant to age, at all. There are lots of *drink now* wines that I in fact love drinking, this isn’t a a dis on them. It’s more a recognition of the smaller number of bottles of wine produced in California, meant for positive evolution in the bottle. Put another way, if this was Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve, one of the most popular American Chardonnays, this would be an extremely different conversation.
But, it’s not. Instead we’re talking about four distinct Chardonnays, made in relatively small quantities, by David Ramey, a legend in the game.
I tasted the wines side by side, without food.
Ramey 2016 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay ($65)
The Hyde Vineyard is on the Napa Valley side of Carneros. 1,256 cases were bottled. Yellow apple and Bosc pear are the dominant aromatics. A weighty mouthfeel imparts instant gravitas. Granny smith apple flavors and wisps of wet limestone are evident. A final kiss of Meyer lemon leaves a refreshing impression.
Ramey 2016 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay ($65)
Rochioli Vineyard is in the Russian River Valley. 901 cases were bottled. Perhaps the most legendary of the vineyards represented here, this Rochioli Chardonnay is a picture of some austerity. Subtle Opal apple aromas and hints of nutmeg drive the aromatics. A bevy of orchard fruit flavors lead to the tart side of things. The finish is persistent and a final hint of honeyed fruit stands in opposition to what came before. If you want a Chardonnay to sip and ponder, this cold be the one.
Ramey 2016 Woolsey Road Vineyard Chardonnay ($65)
Woolsey Road Vineyard is also located in the Russian River Valley. 761 cases were bottled. This is the youngest of the vineyards represented here, having been planted in 2007. Both aromas and flavors here are quite concentrated, the most of this quartet. Bartlett pear and yellow apple are joined by lemon curd and an underlying vein of spice. The long finish has a lip smacking tartness. An overall freshness is the lasting impression of this wine.
Ramey 2016 Ritchie Vineyard Chardonnay ($65)
Ritchie Vineyard is located in the Russian River Valley. 898 cases were bottled. This is the oldest planted of the vineyards represented. The block the fruit comes from was planted in 1972. Punchy lemon zest aromas dominate. Crispin apple flavors are joined by additional citrus. The finish is driven by continuing echoes of tart fruit and minerality. Nuanced and impressive are the key words here.
None of these wines belie their age prominently. Secondary characteristics have begun to peek out to varying degrees, but the glorious fruit flavors are still in prime focus. These are extremely well shepherded wines that have the structure and crisp acidity to continue evolving beautifully. While these are obviously not the current vintages, I recommend the Ramey wines without hesitation.